| GOAN CUISINE – AN
INTRODUCTION |
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The cuisine of Goa has an interesting mix
of influences from all the cultures that it came
into contact with. There are two separate
traditions in cuisine influenced by the respective
religions of Hinduism and Christianity; there are
some meeting points that present interesting
harmony. One of the most popular dishes, the pork
Vindaloo is a result of this beautiful harmony.
The Portuguese cooking has a strong and telling
influence on Goan Cuisine and that should not be
forgotten. Goan food is simple but one has to bear
in mind that most, though not all, of it is chili
hot, spicy, and pungent.
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Over hundred-kilometer long coastline along
the Arabian Sea Goa influences the culture and
lifestyle of the people in a big way. It is not to
say that food is also a part of this influence. A
typical Goan would prefer seafood to all other
meats and would use a lot of coconut for cooking.
Being on the Konkan coast means that the Goan
cuisine shares the spices grown in the region with
the other states on the coast like Maharashtra and
Kerala. It has also drawn a lot from the various
communities that inhabited it at various times.
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The Hindu and the Christian communities of Goa
have their own specialties. There are other
divisions like the Brahmin and non-Brahmin, both
Hindu and Christian, which all offer culinary
variations to the originals. Some of the
lesser-known but equally important influences on
the Goan cuisine are the Kashmiri, Muslim and
Portuguese and African, apart from the tribals who
lived in the dense, rain-drenched forests of
ancient Goa.
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Rice, fish, and coconut are the basic
components of the typical Goan food platter.
Delicacies made from these three items can be
expected in nearly every Goan meal. Besotted with
seafood, the Goans find truly world-class prawns,
lobsters, crabs, and jumbo pomfrets along the
coastline and use them to make a variety of soups,
salads, pickles, curries, and fries. An essential
ingredient in Goan cooking is coconut
milk made by grating the white flesh of a coconut and soaking
it in a cup of warm water. Equally important is
the ‘kokum’, a sour, deep red colored fruit that
gives it a sharp and sour flavor. The famous red
Goan chilies are also a must for most dishes, as
is tamarind. Goans make their own version of
vinegar from toddy. Then there are innumerable
chutneys that are typical of the state. Goa is not
particularly known for its vegetarian dishes.
While Hindus like lamb and chicken, Christians
prefer pork. However, both prefer fish and seafood
to any other meat.
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Traditional Goan cooking calls for plenty
of muscle and time. Grinding is always part of the
recipe and the nicer the dish the longer it takes
to make. Although the styles of the various
communities, past and present, have had their
effect on each other, the gravies of each style
are at a complete variance. The names used are the
same, as are the ingredients used, for making a
delicacy, yet their aroma, flavor, taste, texture,
and color can be completely different. Subtle
differences in ingredients or their use make the
outcome of these similar recipes so different. The
Christians prefer to use vinegar, while the Hindus
use kokum and tamarind to get the tang in their
respective cuisines. The northerners of Goa grind
their coconuts and masalas (spices) individually
while the southern Goans like to grind them
together, and then pass it through a fine muslin
cloth to retain the goodness. Many times people
vary the pork to mutton and chicken to make the
various curries. Although coconut is an essential
part of the everyday cooking, there is no coconut
in several of the popular delicacies like rissois
de camarao, sopa grossa, balchao and vindaloo, and
that wedding favourite, caldo. And, naturally,
when sardines are cooked with tomato puree and
olive oil in the Portuguese manner, coconut is
absent.
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